We realise that for many Covid-19 has dashed hopes and dreams for a 2020 Camino – Keep the faith, the Camino is bigger than all of us, you will be out there fulfilling those dreams before you know it. It pays to remember numbers of peregrinos increase significantly during a Holy Year, when the 25th July (St James’ Day) falls on a Sunday. The next Holy Years are 2021, then 2027 and 2032. Provided numbers of international flights come back online next year as predicted, as borders open up in 2021 this set of circumstances could see huge competition for relatively few high season beds throughout 2021. Of course if you’re determined to be in Spain in 2021 but crowds aren’t your thing you have loads of options for Camino, including the Camino del Norte, Via de la Plata and the shorter routes including Camino Portugues where the crowds will be lessened but the incredible Camino experience still waits for you.
Are you looking for the best time to do the Camino de Santiago? For nearly all of us, the Camino is a step beyond our regular, every-day lives. We are committed to exposing ourselves, day after day, to what nature gives us. Normally, we wouldn’t walk for 6 or 8 hours a day through rain, through sleet, through snow, through blazing heat. Cars are our greatest defence against awful weather, be it cold, heat, rain or snow. So committing to being out there every-day regardless of how bad it might get (or how good, let’s not be too negative!) can feel overwhelming on its own.
Here’s the good news: humans are waterproof. And we can cool ourselves down if we need to (or heat up for that matter). With a little knowledge, and a little planning, the Camino can be walked year-round without issue. Now to be fair, some months are easier than others! There is a balance to be struck as the winter months mean snow and ice (certainly in some areas, most probably in others) and the height of summer means baking, relentless heat in long sections. Both have their drawbacks but equally, both can be planned for and dealt with. If your heart is demanding to push through the snow at O’Cebreiro or Foncebadon then you can certainly do that. If your mind pictures the Camino as marching resolutely across the meseta through Castrojeriz in 40 degree heat, then you can certainly do that too. Spring, Summer, Autumn or a Winter Camino, it’s all possible so don’t worry. Sometimes the best time of year to walk the Camino is whenever you can take the time off, not always an easy task. So plan ahead, have some faith, and know whatever the weather, it will work out.
The other element to consider in when to complete your Camino is the other peregrinos, some months are massively more popular than others. This leads to considerations you have to make about what sort of Camino you want to experience, there are positives and negatives to both sides.
Every month has pilgrims arriving in Santiago de Compostela completing all sorts of routes so it’s always possible! The lowest months being January and February with around 1700 to 2000 arrivals per month and the highest being June and August with over 50000 per month getting to Santiago. Of course the vast majority of walkers prefer the hotter months but there are some outside influences that affect their choices. One of the major facts is that even though August is easily one of the hottest times to go, it is also the major, month long holiday that pretty much everyone in Spain and France takes off so the numbers of French and Spanish walkers is boosted greatly during these hot, hot months. Don’t just look at the numbers and assume that when it’s busiest it must be the best time to walk!
As a broad rule it takes a little over a month to walk from Saint Jean Pied de Port all the way to Santiago so each month is it’s own little possibility for the Camino. To give the best clue I’ve broken the trip up into three sections and gone into detail on each section’s Camino weather for that month. Each is a different climate it feels like when walking through, the difference from Navarre, to the meseta in Castilla y Leon, to Galicia is HUUUUGE even if it only takes a few days to walk between them.
So, what month is the best time to walk the Camino de Santiago? To get an idea I’ve broken down the weather for each month on the Way and then broken THAT month down by region to get a feel for how it all would hang together. Really, I’m not trying to warn anyone off each time of year, or guide them to another because this is your journey, your process, so it’s a guide to help with your planning. Also, weather is a funny old thing and it seems to get less predictable each year. Odd, out of season weather can happen at any time of year, and you need to plan for that too. I’ll talk about that a bit at the end as well.
NOTE: Like I said, weather is a funny old thing. When crossing the highest points of the journey in the Pyrenees, at Cruz de Ferro/Foncebadon and O’Cebreiro weather can and will change quickly. Several people have died by being caught out in freak snowstorms while attempting to cross the mountains. At all times in these areas, even if you’ve checked the weather report, you will need to be prepared for sudden and dramatic worsening of the weather. Carry a full set of warm clothes, water proof layers, extra food and water. BE PREPARED WHATEVER THE WEATHER REPORT SAYS.
So here is your month by month / season by season guide to walking the Camin0 starting with wildflower season – Spring.
This post deals with the Camino Frances weather & pilgrim numbers – Specifically breaking down the walking conditions of the three major sections, each with their own micro-climate – The Pyrenees into Navarre, Castilla y Leon – Meseta & Galicia month by month – The most popular and most heavily trafficked of all the Camino routes
SPRING
Walking the Camino in March
Can I walk the Camino de Santiago in March? March is probably the earliest month in the year where it is practicable for most peregrinos to complete their walk, especially those starting further west. Temperatures should be above freezing nearly constantly and the rains of spring shouldn’t have come into full effect. Good layered winter clothing is necessary but the extreme gear needed in January or February is probably not necessary. However careful thought should be given to Foncebadon and O’Cebriero weather in March.
Pyrenees to Navarre
It is still very cool at the top of the Napoleon pass at this time of year so it’s still closed unfortunately. The Valcarlos route however should be much nicer when compared to other months. Snow on the ground will be mostly gone, especially later in March. Temperatures will range from 0°C to 10° (32°F to 50°F) during March but as we are coming in to spring, it can be lower or higher. Adaptability will be key, this is still a sub-alpine environment.
Heading across Navarre and the end of winter will be in sight, temps raise to average between 4°C and 15°C (39°F to 59°). Clear, calm mornings (especially early in March) will still have frosts and be at or just below zero but conversely, the highs could push into the late teens later in March. Coming towards spring makes for some variations but on average there is only 50mm (2”) of rain over 11 days.
Castilla y Leon – Meseta
The days will be getting much longer in March and the temperatures have started to move back up. Temperatures average between a low of 2°C and a high of 14°C (35°F to 57°F) which sounds great but as per previous months, it wouldn’t take much of an unusual late cold burst to push these down below freezing. Still will need a good set of warm layers. On the plus side, 14° is a great walking temperature, comfortable and easy to manage. Spring has not quite sprung yet so there’s not much in the way of rain, 6 days on average per month to total 36mm (1.4”)
Galicia
More warm coastal weather means walking in Galicia is positively practical. Even not being spring, the winter has backed off and the temperatures average between 5°C and 14°C (41°F and 57°F) so while it will feel brisk, it will be totally manageable for most with a good set of layered warm clothing. The rain of spring hasn’t really arrived yet either (by Galician standards) so the total month average for March is 79mm (3.1”) over approximately 12 wet days.
Walking the Camino in April
Can I walk the Camino de Santiago in April? Days are getting longer and options are becoming wider. Spring makes for some pretty, green, pleasant walking but as it’s still early, you will need to be prepared for the worst the weather can throw at you. You can’t hide from the rain in April, it’ll be damp but the highest of temperatures won’t be reached and those can be the real killers on the Camino. Being prepared for some cold snaps is still necessary but the weather has become almost pleasant!
Pyrenees to Navarre
Rapidly improving spring weather means the Napoleon route over the top of the Pyrenees officially re-opens on the 1st of April however it can still be closed on days of specific poor weather. Most snow should be gone but a late burst of cold could bring intermittent closures so as long as you aren’t unlucky, the Napoleon Route should be a choice for you. Because of the altitude, temperatures stay pretty sharp in April being and average low of 2°C and a high of 11°C (36°F and 52°F) but you pass through this high zone fairly quickly. A lot of it you will be working pretty hard climbing the mountains so keeping your body temperature up may not be as tough as you might first imagine.
Coming down around Pamplona and the temperature is still rising in Spring. Days are noticeably longer now too. The higher temperatures get up to 5°C to 16°C (41°F to 61°F) which means the more out there days shouldn’t drop below zero and may get up into the 20’s! Perfect walking temps. What’s not as perfect is the spring rains will have started but it’s not going to be over whelming. Average rainfall for April is 75mm (3”) over 10 days of rain average for the month. Regular enough to want to have a poncho to hand.
Castilla y Leon – Meseta
The rise back up on to the meseta tempers how high the temperature gets in April and its consistency tends to mean it doesn’t get quite as hot as you might expect. Good news for walkers however, later in the summer the meseta can get crushing so completing what can be a grind for some peregrinos in the cool of April. Unsurprisingly, spring can be quite unstable and on rare days can drop back to zero or even raise up into the early 20s. Even though spring is starting to push in, it doesn’t rain too much in these parts yet with 41mm of rain (1.75”) over 7 days on average. Only the luckiest won’t see a day of rain but it’s a good time to test out your rain gear before getting into Galicia.
Galicia
Spring temps are dragging the comfort levels up and its often cloudy or overcast here so it doesn’t get quite as cold at night. The temps go from 6°C to 15°C (43°F to 59°F) which is still quite cold, and you will need to be layered up. Of course in Galicia the spring rain will be a bit more regular which will make the cold felt a bit deeper, the average for April is 85mm of rain (3.3”) spread over 13 days so you won’t be a stranger to getting rained on.
Walking the Camino in May
Can I walk the Camino de Santiago in May? A great month to walk for sure, the weather is still mild and some of the dampness of the spring rains has cut back. The meseta will be a bold green sea full of new growth. You shouldn’t see any temps below or even at zero and it also shouldn’t be overwhelmingly hot for most. The rains of spring should have complete most of their hard work already. It’s hard not to see the positives to walking in May if you have a choice.
Pyrenees to Navarre
A great time to be working your way over the top from France to Spain, by attempting the crossing when the temps are low it means you can stop yourself from overheating, hopefully. Starting at 6°C and averaging up to 16°C (43°F to 61°F) higher up on the mountain it should be a great time to go. When you are up that high though, care needs to be maintained, it’s still in that sub-alpine environment and extreme weather can happen, its unlikely to drift below zero though.
Getting down off the hill down towards Pamplona lets the temperature drift up to average between 9°C and 21°C (48°F and 70°F). This is the start of the classic Spanish heat, on a hot day it gets up into the mid 20s, you are going to want to have a good water supply going. Has the potential to be a bit tougher. Spring rains are still in effect with an average of 60mm (2.4”) over an average of 10 damp days in May. Makes for a pretty likely chance of seeing some rain on this section so preparation is key.
Castilla y Leon – Meseta
The meseta has a reputation as being a brutal hot grind but thanks to the increase in altitude up onto the plain, the temperature is kept in check. The temps run from 7°C to 20°C (44°F to 68°F) which makes for solid walking. Slightly damper this month than last but it still doesn’t add up to much and if you’re lucky you might not see any. May averages 54.7mm (2.1”) on 8 days of precipitation. The meseta for some is the perfect pilgrimage, and for some is an exceptionally difficult grind, choosing a time of year where it’s at its most benign could be a great idea.
Galicia
Galicia is also starting to see the effect of the year getting on and summer being just over the way. With temperatures coming up to be between 8°C and 17°C (46°F and 63°F) which makes for a great time to be walking. Unlikely to drift down towards zero and it shouldn’t get overly hot either. As per usual, the rain is the biggest issue in Galicia and it’s still going to be pretty moist with 80mm (3.1”) of rainfall averaged for May over 11 days. Classic Galicia means you will get muddy feet and this month could have the worst of it. A strong shoe game is probably the best move.
SUMMER
Walking the Camino in June
Can I walk the Camino de Santiago in June? Another very popular month to walk, the likelihood of cold snaps is reduced greatly and summer is in effect without the devastatingly hot days of later in the year. Even though it’s summer, crossing the Pyrenees and western mountains around O’Cebriero and Cruz de Ferro will be cooler and still have the potential for some rather cold days but the classic trick of putting on every bit of clothing you have and throwing a jacket over the top will probably be enough!
Pyrenees to Navarre
This can be an incredible time to be up in the mountains, the days are long and clear. It’s a common refrain to hear that the first day crossing the Pyrenees is the highlight and June could be the best month to complete the walk. With temps starting at 9°C and getting up to 20°C (48°F to 68°F) with luck there shouldn’t be too much to bother you, hot or cold.
Heading towards Pamplona and you will feel the summer days, for sure. Ranging from 12°C to 25°C (54°F to 77°F) on average should make for good walking but it will regularly come up higher to the early 30s around here. A good hat, and a good water supply will be the top considerations. Not too much rain should fall, June averages 45mm (1.8”) over 6 days. It’s not uncommon to see no rain at all.
Castilla y Leon
The classic images of the baking, treeless, shade-free meseta come from the summer days when it really starts to beat down. The average temperatures range from 10°C all the way up to 26°C (50°F to 79°F) which you will feel. Outlier days will be regularly up into the early 30s which makes for tough walking when there’s little shade, but it’s still manageable. Good shade protection will be nearly indispensable on this leg as there is very little natural shade on the walk. Not much rainfall on the plains at this time of year with the historical average being around 35mm (1.4”) over 5 days. It wouldn’t be odd to see only 1 or even no days of precipitation in June.
Galicia
Coming over the western approaches into Galicia will probably be a relief for most pilgrims arriving from the hot western meseta for those walking the Camino in May. Thanks to the coastal climate and cloudier nights the temperature average comes to a more pleasant range of 11°C to 21°C (52°F to 70°). It can be stormy being this close to the North Atlantic but it should be fairly stable at this time of year. Having the rain back off as well means less drizzly days to walk through and less mud underfoot. Rain for this month averages 42mm (1.6”) over 7 days historically.
Walking the Camino in July
Can I walk the Camino de Santiago in July? With the Spanish and French citizens taking their summer holidays around this time, it’s pretty much peak season for walkers. Certainly one of the driest months but also the heat will be in full swing so you will need to be aware of water supply and keeping cool. Lots of walkers look to start early, 5am in the dark to complete the vast bulk of their days pilgrimage by lunchtime, avoiding the worst of the heat which usually doesn’t hit its peak until 3 or 4pm.
Pyrenees to Navarre
A wonderful time to be making your way through the mountains, with nice starts and the temperature never gets too high thanks to the altitude. Clear, calm days are the likely outcomes for July in the mountain tops. Temperatures start at 11°C and average up to 23°C (52°F to 73°F) so nothing over the top either way.
Coming down into Navarre and you will find summer in full swing, the days are long and warm averaging 14°C to 28° (57°F to 82°F) so as soon as you get going in the morning, it’ll already be pretty tropical and by the mid-afternoon will be stifling. Plan for early starts hoping for early finishes. You would be very unlucky to get a lot of rain with July averaging 35mm (1.4”) over 4 days. Heat is the main issue in July
Castilla y Leon – Meseta
There are many, many blog posts and entries on the meseta at this time of year, it is merciless. The sun will beat down, there will be little shade, and the days are long and grinding. Temperatures start at 13°C and the high average is 30°C (55°F to 86°F) but it can get very high indeed on a tough day, mid to late 30s (up to 100°F) can happen. Without cover, you will need big hats and lots of water. Stories about starting at 5 or 6 am to be finished by lunch time are common for this section. It’s hard, physical work and hard mental work, no doubt. Very little precipitation historically with 20mm (0.75”) over 2 days on average. Heat is the issue, not rain.
Galicia
Lovely time to be walking in Galicia and a huge number of peregrinos will be starting in Sarria during July and August. Temps are an easy 12°C to 23°C on average (54°F to 73°F) and it shouldn’t rain much at all with an average of only 30mm (1.25”) over 5 days for Galicia. This could be a big drawcard for those looking for a shorter Camino and starting in Galicia, perhaps the best time of year for this section. Dry underfoot. Not too cold, not too hot. Hard to argue with.
Walking the Camino in August
Can I walk the Camino de Santiago in August? It’s a very popular month for sure – Weather wise the beginning and end of the Camino Frances is actually pretty temperate in August, perfect for walking. If you’re just looking to walk the last 100kms this month is a definite goer. Not cold and usually not overly hot. The Meseta is another story. On the plus side there won’t be much rain but conversely the heat will be unrelenting. A hard grind to be managed through planning, lots of water, and a strong will to push on through the hard stuff. If it suits your disposition, you also won’t be lonely. A very busy month for the Compostela office in Santiago with the most peregrinos completing their Caminos in August.
Pyrenees to Navarre
Along with July, this is the hottest, driest part of the year, deep in summer. Crossing the Pyrenees though is perfect, the weather is temperate thanks to the alpine environment. Shouldn’t over heat up there and the mornings won’t be too cold either so not hard to get started. Lows of 11°C and highs of 24°C (52°F to 75°F).
Coming down towards Pamplona and the heat comes up in August, lots of very hot days but there’s a fair amount of cover and shade about which makes for a more positive experience. Temps start at 15°C and have an average high of 28°C (59°F to 82°F) which is no joke, hot hot hot will be on the cards. More and more people will be pulling the “up and at them early” trick to get ahead of the weather. Won’t rain much most likely with an average of 40mm (1.6”) of rain over 5 days normally so you won’t even have much drizzle to help cool you down. Lots of sunscreen will be your best bet.
Castilla y Leon – Meseta
More brutally hot days are on the cards. The meseta will be drying out and harvest will be in full swing. Trees and shade will be in short supply unfortunately as temperatures will average a low of 14°C and high of 29° (57°F to 84°F). Hot, long tough days will be the norm, and the regular techniques to deal with it will be starting early, lots of water, plenty of sunscreen and a big hat. Keep up on those and you can knock this section over. Not much relief from the sky in August with only 19mm (1.75”) of rain on average over 2 days normally. Most likely will not see a raincloud let alone rain. Tough days to be had here.
Galicia
Like July, an almost ideal time to be walking the Galician section as the temperatures are in a great range averaging from 13°C to 23°C (55°F to 73°F). Nothing too cold, nothing too hot even on an outlier day. Very little rain in August as well at 35mm (1.3”) over 6 days which keeps the mud away and makes for easy walking. It’s a little up and down through Galicia so by having dry feet and not overheating you will be making it as easy as it can be.
AUTUMN
Walking the Camino in September
Can I walk the Camino de Santiago in September? September makes for a great month to walk in, the temperatures across the board are still high but without the crazy peaks of July or August and the rain hasn’t yet arrived in the amounts you might see later in the year. The number of walkers will have decreased slightly thanks to the end of the French/Spanish domestic holiday period but you certainly won’t be alone on the way. A month that should be carefully considered as a choice, if you can fit it in.
Pyrenees to Navarre
Still warm coming over the top at least in early September, with a range of temperatures from 9°C to 20°C on average (48°F to 68°F). The ground will be pretty dried off after a long, hot summer so it will be dusty and rocky underfoot usually. A good time to come over, the days will be long, warm and clear. Lots of people begin their journey out of St Jean in September.
Heading towards Pamplona and the heat is still strong in late summer with the averages beginning at 12°C and getting up to 25°C (54°F to 77°F) but it will still get up in to the 30s on a hot day. Dry and brown will be the most common scenes, the trees providing shelter will be gratefully seen. Not much rain with an average of 45mm (1.8”) over 6 days normally. Very likely to see not much rain at all for September.
Castilla y Leon – Meseta
More of that intense, Spanish, summer sun to make life a bit tough. The ground will be well baked by now, the greens of the rolling fields nearly all gone and a lot of harvesting bringing the ground back to dusty browns and yellows. Temperatures start at 10°C and hit an average high of 26°C (50°F to 79°F) which may not look like too much but the air will be dry and starting to blow a bit, hotter days will ease into the 30s. The classic images of the meseta are true this month.
Galicia
Still warmish with autumn starting to have an effect by bringing the temps down a little and bringing a little more rain. The air temperature ranges on average from 11°C to 21°C (52°F to 70°F) which means it shouldn’t get too hot unless there is a very rare late warm blast and neither too cold. Nothing towards freezing anyway. Rain increases but shouldn’t reach its full potential for Galicia as it averages only 68mm (2.5”) over 8 days for September. Of course it pays to remember that as it’s a changeable season and you are heading towards the coast it can be a very “4 seasons in 1 day” type scenario. Be prepared.
Walking the Camino in October
Can I walk the Camino de Santiago in October? Still a busy time to walk but with it slowing down in general. Temperatures are falling but without hitting any real lows (excepting at the high passes) and there shouldn’t be any super hot, hot days that can happen earlier in the summer. Of course, the weather in Northern Spain at this time of year has the potential to be unstable so preparations for storms or cold snaps will still need to be maintained. All the accommodation options will still be open but the numbers of walkers will be dwindling, a lot of places close at the end of October. I’d actually recommend October to walk being quieter and cooler than some previous months.
Pyrenees to Navarre
In October the clouds are starting to appear a bit more regularly which leads to two effects, the low temperatures not reaching too low overnight and a bit more rainfall in general. To say the weather is still holding up at this time of year would be true, the low temps average down to 6°C up high and get up to an average of 15°C thanks to the altitude (43°F to 59°F). Very manageable.
Getting down to the lower sections in Navarre and the temperatures increase to an average of 9°C to 19°C (48°F to 59°F) which makes for pretty nice walking really, nothing too extreme to manage, Thanks to the cloudier conditions there is more rain with an average of 75mm (3”) on 10 days in October. Once again, nothing too extreme and certainly within most walkers ability to work through.
Castilla y Leon – Meseta
Autumn is having a strong effect now in October with the temperatures not reaching their usual highs but also not drifting too low, only on days where it’s a bit of an outlier will you find it becoming very chilly. The temperatures range on average form 8°C to 18°C (46°F to 64°F) which makes for nothing too tough to overcome. Weather can be pretty changeable this time of year however, strong winds and rain squalls can make the day very tough indeed. Having said that, it shouldn’t rain too much with 37mm (1.6”) over 5 days on average for October.
Galicia
The weather in Spain in October (as well as the temperature in Spain in October!) can safely be described as “varied”. Coming into Galicia and the temperature drops slightly from the previous month to an average of 9°C to 17°C (48°F to 63°) thanks to increased cloud and more coastal weather influences. Shorter days, drearier and a bit greyer in general but not too cold thanks to all the cloud. Rain will start to become heavier and more regular as well most likely with an average rainfall of 110mm (4.5”) over 12 days for October. The wet will amplify any cold days but it shouldn’t get too low in general. Muddier walking with the rainfall is something to consider as well, waterproof shoes or boots might be prudent. Last time I walked through Galicia in late October to early November it rained for 14 days straight, my entire trip from O’Cebriero to Santiago de Compostela!
Walking the Camino in November
Can I walk the Camino de Santiago in November? When looking for the best time to walk the Camino, November probably isn’t your best bet to start if you’re planning on tackling the full 790kms. The temperatures will have dropped into the single digits for most of the walk, snow and sleet won’t be rare to see at altitude. A lot of accommodations will be closed, but thanks to the reduced numbers of walkers there still shouldn’t be too many issues finding a place to stay. Often the municipal albergues close late October/ early November. Having said all that, it’s still very possible to complete the Camino de Santiago in November, with a lot of forethought and preparation for more severe weather conditions.
Pyrenees to Navarre
From the 1st of November the Napoleon route over the Lepoeder Pass is closed due to the difficult and cold conditions. Snow will have fallen and it can get quite deep. Thanks to previous years and the need for regular rescuing of pilgrims that get themselves into trouble, the emergency services close the route until at least the 1st of April. Having said that, the Valcarlos route remains open year-round as it doesn’t reach nearly the same altitude. It will be very cold however, temperatures on average run between 2°C and 9°C (36°F and 48°F) and it will regularly drop below zero. Difficult walking which needs to be well prepared for.
Heading down from Roncesvalles towards Pamplona and it will heat up a bit but it will still be pretty brisk! Averages for November run from 5°C to 13° (41°F to 55°F) so it will regularly be a frosty start in the mornings and you’ll be wearing your thermals all day. The rain will have picked up too, November in Navarre will average 75mm of rain (3”) on 10 days of the month. The poncho will get a workout. Waterproof boots will be a good idea.
Castilla y Leon – Meseta
Very cool attempting to cross the meseta. Excellent chance of finding snow and howling winds barrelling across the open, treeless ground. Weather temps generally average from 3°C to 11°C (37°F to 52°) meaning a good layering of warm, weather-proof clothing will be needed. It shouldn’t rain too much with the steadying effect of winter winds with an average of 43mm (1.75”) over 6 days but the meseta always has the potential for storms to blow through. Could be hard work through here, many accommodation options will also be closed from the end of October due to the lack of peregrinos coming through but with a bit of forward planning there should be a albergue still accepting walkers in most towns, otherwise a more pricey stay in a hotel or Casa Rural might be on the cards.
Galicia
Low altitudes and cloudy weather keeps November at an even keel, the coastal weather patterns keep the temps from dropping too low. Averages for November through here are between 6°C and 12°C (43°F and 54°F) which will be cool without it getting to freezing very often. Those clouds mean there’s a fair bit of rain about however averaging 114mm (4.6”) for the month over 14 days. The squally rainstorms accompanied with blustery winds will make for some grey walking and will make the temperatures feel lower than they might otherwise. The rain will make for muddy tracks which will need to be prepared for. Aggressive soled boots or shoes should be considered.
WINTER
Walking the Camino in December
Can I walk the Camino de Santiago in December? While technically you can, you would want your start point to be the closer to Santiago the better really. From Sarria or the like (after the very high sections around O’Cebriero) and come prepared for cold, wet, muddy weather – it’s very possible for most still. Longer caminos will take more planning and preparation and will be much more difficult as you will have to cross those sub-alpine environments. Most walkers avoid December with good reason. It’s not easy. You will need to carry extra emergency equipment (extra food, shelter and clothing) most of the time as it’s not hard to get in a sticky situation on almost any day.
Pyrenees to Navarre
It will take a brave soul to take on the Camino in December, the cold will be the dominating feature. Snow will have settled over the Pyrenees and the Valcarlos will be the only foot crossing available. The temperature will regularly be below freezing through the mountain range, average temperatures of -1°C to 7°C (30°F to 45°F) which will be difficult and often dangerous to walk in, a good level of sub alpine hiking experience would be preferable. Emergency equipment and heavy-duty cold weather waterproof gears are necessities.
Coming down out of the hills into the lower sections of Navarre and the air won’t heat up much. Averages for December in Pamplona run from 2°C to 10°C (36°F to 50°F) which will make for cool walking. Snow will be on the ground in places and will stick around on cooler days, the temperature will regularly be below freezing again. Fairly damp as well for this part of Spain in December, the average rainfall for the month is 75mm (3”) over 11 days. The wet mixed with the cold will make for tough walking. The Camino de Santiago in December is not for the faint-hearted, a winter Camino is a challenge for any walker.
Castilla y Leon – Meseta
Tough walking out across the meseta in December, as there is some altitude the temperatures average a quite cold 0°C to 8°C (32°F to 46°F). Regularly below freezing with not much sun to be seen makes for a tough environment to walk in. Not too much rainfall at 45mm (1.8”) averaged over 6 days in the month but some of that will be snow fall. Hard walking without much sunshine, short cold days. You will need to carry emergency equipment for when there’s an issue with a good amount of waterproof, warm clothes. Could be calm, cold and clear or you could face a blizzard. Being prepared for the worst is key.
Galicia
Again, a tough time to be walking across Galicia. Once past the dangerous high points at Cruz de Ferro and O’Cebriero the descent to lower altitudes nearer the coast makes for slightly more stable walking. Temperatures average between 4°C and 10°C (39°F and 50°F) which is cold, without it becoming absolutely freezing. Storms and rain clouds come in off the North Atlantic pretty regularly and it can rain every day. On average there will be 135mm (5.3”) over 15 days in December. Very wet leads to muddy ground underfoot. Low sunshine with lots of cloud will make for some very grey days. If you can be prepared with enough waterproof gear, it’s still very do-able from Sarria in December. Stay warm and dry.
Walking the Camino in January
Can I walk the Camino de Santiago in January? You will need to be prepared for the worst of the weather I’m afraid and be a confident back country hiker preferably. Below zero clothing will be needed in layers, waterproof hiking boots are a good idea with heavy socks as well as a pretty serious waterproof top layer being a poncho or jacket and rain pants. A well equipped first aid kit with emergency shelter and blankets would also be necessary. Many albergues will be closed but there are enough that stay open all year round for the few hardy souls that start their camino in January. Not a month for the amateurs.
Pyrenees to Navarre
It’s cold! This is the hardest time of year to consider a crossing of the Pyrenees, the snow will be on the ground, possibly in the order of 1m deep at the tops around Leopeder Pass. The Napoleon Route is closed at this time of year by order of the emergency services on both sides of the border due to to the regular need to rescue pelerins when trouble strikes. The Valcarlos will be open however as it’s much easier to not get lost and doesn’t nearly reach the heights of the Napoleon. You will be exposed to much more traffic on the road however. It will be below freezing pretty much constantly.
Navarre is pretty darn cold too. Pamplona can have some light snow at this time of year but it’s not common and nothing like up at the top of the Pyrenees. Temperatures average from 1°C to 12°C (33°F to 55°F) with more extreme events dragging the temp down to -5°C (23°F) occasionally. It would be normal to have around 10 days of rain for a total of 60mm (2.5”) for the month so regularly drizzly without too many downpours. Might not see rain at all though!
Castilla y Leon – Meseta
More of the same I’m afraid, cold and tough. The temperature will average around 1°C to 10°C (33°F to 50°F) but can regularly be much colder. It’s not unusual to see a low of -4°C and a high of 1°C (25°F and 33°F) in a day. Any snow that would fall would be patchy so not too hard to follow the track, and you are regularly near roads and towns. It’s pretty dry out here, averaging 7 days of rain for about 42mm (1.75”) total for the month so a bit drizzly regularly without heavy bursts most likely. Shouldn’t need the poncho too often.
Galicia
The lower altitude and coastal climate makes for a more steady time in January. Temperatures are from 3°C to 10°C (37°F to 50°F) but rarely drops into the negatives and can drift higher. Unlikely to have snow but maybe frost in the mornings. It’s definitely damper though thanks again to that coastal climate with 14 days of rain in the month for a total of 128mm (5”) so there will be regular rain days with some heavy falls.
Walking the Camino in February
Can I walk the Camino de Santiago in February? Very similar to January, this is a tough time to walk to Santiago. Some would argue “what is a pilgrimage without a little suffering!” and you might find that in February. Very cold weather, wet in places without being overwhelming but the cold will ramp up how tough the wet is. Multiple layers to combat different conditions, waterproof boots with aggressive soles to keep your feet dry. A well stocked emergency kit would be indispensable. A well experienced hiker could be looking at February, could be tough for someone with less time in the outdoors.
Pyrenees to Navarre
The winter is still in deep effect with the Napoleon route being closed and Valcarlos being the only section open thanks to the danger in crossing the higher passes. Temperatures stay very low in the higher sections and there will be a few inches of snow on the ground most likely. Towards the end of the month some ground fall snow will reduce.
Coming down into Navarre and it will still be a pretty bracing time to be walking. Temperatures range from 2°C to 11°C (36°F to 52°) with good chances for some below freezing starts to days. Not too much rain thankfully to make it tougher with 9 days of precipitation for a total of 50mm (2”) for the month.
Castilla y Leon – Meseta
Still cool as you come across the meseta, the altitude mixed with this time of year will often mean a crisp start. Temps average 0°C to 10°C (32°F to 50°F) and it will mean below zero starts often and sharp days. There shouldn’t be much rain out with an average of 36mm (1.4”) spread over 7 days per month. With layered clothing, it shouldn’t be too bad. Gloves would be smart.
Galicia
Not much change from January with the temperature on average being 3°C to 11°C (37°F to 52°F) and it shows to be much damper than the rest of Spain (unsurprisingly) with 100mm (4”) of rain spread over 14 days. It’s important to plan for a more extreme period of weather and so you have to have gear that can stand up to sub-zero temperatures at this time of year. It’s very normal for a day to start below zero and only reach a 3°C high occasionally. Of course this is the place where the poncho is going to be on constantly for days at a time. You would have to be very lucky to make it through Galicia without having a tough time in the wet, the cold will amplify its effect.
LOOKING FOR SOLITUDE / COMPANY:
When do the other Pilgrims walk?
Pilgrims complete their caminos all year round, but there is certainly a large bias to the middle, warmer, drier parts of the year! In 2019, a total of 347654 walkers arrived in Santiago and of that, 325537 (or 94%) completed in the 7 months between April and October. Outside of those times, the colder, harsher weather tends to restrict all but the bravest (or foolhardy.) Starting from St Jean Pied de Port for example is very rare in January and December, in 2017 only around 300 people each month registered as starting in St Jean while there were around 1300 compostela awarded in January and nearly 2800 in December. In August where the largest spike is, the Spanish, French and Italian holidays are in full effect and there is a massive boost in those nationalities being issued with a compostela and when you dig into the data you can see a drop in the other, further afield nationalities (North and South America especially) who try to avoid this very busy, hot month.
If you are a social person and are looking for a shared experience the busier months could be perfect. Everyday you will meet people from all over the world, having the same day, covering the same path, staying in the same places, feeling the same weather. It’s a melting pot of different culture, languages, ages, and goals. But all are having the shared experience, all are on the same page. It’s a powerful educational journey to feel how close we all really are but this may be the opposite of your intention, for many this is a journey where solitude is crucial for internal introspection and reflection. Consider your own motivations and goals and see where you will fit. As always, you can shape this trip to your own needs – solitude can be found on the busiest day, company can be found on the most wild.
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So when is the best time of year to walk the Camino de Santiago?
Totally subjective of course and everyone will have their own perspective but if you’re searching for this I’ll give you my thoughts – The best time to hike the Camino de Santiago, depending if a more solo adventure is what suits, or a more communal walk are the shoulder seasons – September/October or April/May would be the ideal times for most. They’re not quite as busy as the middle months and have generally stable weather, which makes for the nicest experience. It will still be busy, with thousands out on the Way but the improved weather from the bleakest winter and hottest summer is avoided and so that the numbers of fellow pilgrims aren’t overwhelming, I think these are the best times to get out there. But as I said, the Camino can be walked anytime of the year so if you can only walk another month, this paragraph shouldn’t dissuade you! With some planning, the correct gear and the right attitude, it can be done. Bon Courage and Buen Camino!
Sources: www.accuweather.com; www.climatestotravel.com; www.holiday-weather.com; www.google.com; www.caminodesantiago.me; www.oficinadelperegrino.com; www.aucoeurduchemin.org/
We are a family of five from Mount Maunganui in New Zealand ‘Mount Adventure Club‘. We’ve sold up and packed away (almost) all traces of our real life – We traded it all in to travel the world, worldschooling our three boys along the way – We spent 3 months on Camino across France and Spain in 2019 and before Covid disrupted our plans we were heading back to Europe for more this summer