Everyone is up to speed today, we’re getting pretty efficient at packing down our little Rhinowolf camping set up, so we set a lofty goal of getting to Espalion by the end of the day.
After the standard patisserie breakfast and a serious little uphill out of town we continue the descent off the plateau towards the valley floor. The blackberries are in full swing around here, plenty of stopping for a roadside snack.
We quickly arrive to Lestrade, Alissa ever hopeful for coffee, and we find a nice refuge set up with hot water, surprisingly good coffee and orange juice for a small donation to the honesty box. It’s very welcoming and quite different to the effect you feel in some other towns. Not sure if it’s a Sunday morning thing or everyday but we loved it. Little things help when you’ve got a big day ahead.
From Lestrade it’s more rolling downhill past the farms (with a few sharp ups) until you hit St Come d’Olt, an amazing old walled town. We stop here and find ourselves in the middle of a street festival maybe? It’s mid-30s, sweat is streaming, Alissa’s camera gives out due to heat, it’s that hot.
We’ve wandered into the most beautiful old town and round the corner to find bumper cars, an oompah band and everyone in the town furiously going for it at one in the afternoon on a Sunday. Feeling slightly delirious we have our lunch (aligot of course) as if we are in a nightclub, amidst the cigarette smoke, thumping music and boozed up patrons.
It’s apparently a difficult 7.8km walk to Espalion from here and it’s getting very, very hot now we are down at 350m or so above sea level so we decide to follow the back road variation following the river instead of turning up the hill to follow the GR65. It’s a good choice.
The campground is just as you enter town and is basic but nice. The municipal pool is there too and staying at the campground gives you free access but of course you must have the correct short shorts bathing suit or you will be turned away. The French are passionate about their speedos. C’est la vie.
